If you have an interest in cider, its history and the many varieties that go into making it, then look no further than the recently published The Lost Orchards by Liz Copas and Nick Poole (pictured).

For more than 20 years, Liz and Nick have covered every corner of Dorset finding the remains of old orchards and analysing the apples. At the end of the 18th century, John Claridge reported there were 10,000 acres of orchards in Dorset when cider must have been the preferred drink.

Sadly, since WW2 traditional orchards have declined by 81 per cent due to the need for larger fields and housing. Even more modern orchards of dessert apples and pears are declining because of rising costs and consumers buying foreign produce. 

But around the 1950/60s in Dorset a few cider makers, mainly in the west of the county, joined together in clubs. When the Powerstock Cider Festival was started by Nick Poole, more were encouraged to improve orchards and make the Dorset nectar.  

Liz worked at Long Ashton Cider Research station and found some documents including a list of Dorset apples compiled by a Mr Pickford in the 1930s.

On their travels, Liz and Nick found some known varieties, but many, identified by their DNA, had no name so appropriate Dorset titles were created: Lancombe, Marnhull Mill, Dorset Winter Stubbard, Cattistock Pink, Matravers and Frome River, to name a few.

Cuttings were taken and grafted to produce a new generation of cider apple trees, which is where Rupert Best came in, long known as a producer. In 2011 he established a trials orchard at Melplash called Linden Lea, where propagation continues, and trees can be sold to cider enthusiasts. 

In 2020 a tasting of 20 single-variety ciders was organised in Best’s barn, a great achievement and a wonderful experience. Golden Ball, one of the varieties Pickford recognised, took the gold medal. 

The book has many fascinating historical stories and events, and some of the cider makers from the last century are mentioned, a few of whom have relatives carrying on the good work.

There are photos of trees and their apples, so if you live in or near Dorset, you could try identifying varieties and, maybe, find an old Dorset one. Alternatively begin delving into the old orchards of your own county.

This county now has around 16 cider makers, which are keen to keep the name of Dorset going as a great cider area.