Modern British Cider by Gabe Cook (CAMRA Books) is a look at cider from all angles. Cider as it was, as it is, as it will be. It is composed of Cook's stories, opinions and campaigning vision. He even delves into the vocabulary around cider.

It’s a book that covers a lot, and lets the reader choose how deep or shallow they go. Gabe’s work moves the argument for artisanal craft cider on. A timely survey, a fascinating update, and a true rallying call to action.

Modern British Cider (MBC) celebrates the recent resurgence of artisanal craft cider, however, also argues that the drink is at a crossroads. Cider faces many challenges holding it back from achieving its full potential. It’s resurgence achieved as traditional producers have been joined by a wave of new exciting producers, achieving an exciting celebration of styles, approaches and traditions.

As Cook says: “I hold that now is the most exciting time for cider in the last 400 years, since the 17th-century ‘ciderists’ were advocating cider as one of the finest drinks made on these shores. There is still a long way to go, however.” 

Since 2000 there has been a renaissance in artisan cider making all around Britain. The National Association of Cider Makers (NACM) currently estimates a minimum of 480 active cider makers in the UK. Three quarters of these have started up in the last 10 years.

The large majority of producers of real cider #NotFromConcentrate are micro scale, smaller than even the smallest breweries, restricted to producing less than 7,000 litres a year by a restrictive duty system.

A small number of industrial producers dominate with 95 per cent of the market, making products where there is less juice than water and other ingredients. One producer commands just about half of all the cider sold in Britain. Cook calculates  the total annual production of the micro cider makers equates to one day's production of Strongbow.

CAMRA campaigns to secure the long-term future of real cider and perry by increasing their quality, availability and popularity. This requires encouraging and supporting more producers to aspire to make high-quality and delicious drinks. It also requires removing some of the barriers which prevent further growth by producers of #NotFromConcentrate cider and perry.

The book identifies three key areas for campaigning progress:

–  the introduction of a progressive cider duty system. A sliding scale to allow the innovation and growth that encouraged the craft beer revolution two decades ago. CAMRA welcomed proposals in the October Budget for retention of the 70hL exemption for small cider producers and tapered sliding scale above. This new small producers relief for cider is potentially a gamechanger for the growth of #NotFromConcentrate producers

– the current 35 per cent minimum juice content (MJC) does not uphold the integrity of cider and serves the interests of industrial producers of cider from concentrate. An increase to where cider has more juice than other ingredients would be an important breakthrough. Again CAMRA welcomed the continuing discussions opened by the Alcohol Duty Review published on Budget day to review MJC.

– greater transparency. For consumers to make fully informed decisions, we need ingredients listing and the end of misleading marketing claims.

Launching this pathway into the future cider needs a set of descriptive terms and style guides to enable the media, drinks trade and consumer to be aware of the full breadth and diversity cider. For that Modern British Cider and CAMRA’s Learn and Discover have created a lexicon and guide to the styles of cider and perry. For details see: Cider Lexicon - CAMRA - Campaign for Real Ale

Cider has always had a dedicated following, but most people never drink it, and many recall bad experiences of poor quality scrumpy while on holiday or overindulging at a teenage house party. Part of the challenge then is trying to change the perception of cider.

A positive sign for the future is that many in the younger generations have developed new approaches to drinking. They are curious consumers. Rachel Hendry, from award-winning beer and drinks blog The Burum Collective, has coined the phrase “compound drinking” to capture this emergence of drinkers with a considerably greater knowledge and repertoire of, and openness to, a whole range of drinks across beer, wine and very much cider. For more see: On Compound Drinking — BURUM COLLECTIVE

Matthew Curtis in his new CAMRA Books release confidently sets out a definition of modern British beer, but not so Gabe Cook, for modern British cider is still under construction. Curtis’ confidence comes from two decades of the craft beer revolution, but while the small brewers relief introduced in 2002 was able to launch a rise in innovative craft brewers, artisanal  cider faces a far bigger challenge. It is only now at that point in its history that beer was two decades ago.

Frequently loaded with pre-conceptions and negative connotations, cider is releasing itself from the shackles of what has come become before, is finding its voice and showcasing its ability to be a high-value drink

Creating a positive image for cider and campaigning against the obstacles preventing cider achieving its full potential is one part of Cook’s future modern cider – the other parts bear great similarity to  Curtis’ approach to modern beer.

The future of British cider is focused on ingredients; is invested in sustainability and the environment; is supportive of its local communities; is inclusive and searches for equality and lastly, of course, is delicious.