After reports of “perry is dead”, a rebellion rose from the ranks of makers and enthusiasts alike.

A campaign led by the Three Counties Cider and Perry Association (TCCPA) challenged the claim. The underdog in the world of fermentation fought back, with producers and advocates calling out against a dumbing down for consumers and dismissal of an ancient drink.

Should a product that needs a sprinkling more of understanding be eradicated from existence? None would claim sourdough is dead or question the validity of a product that requires conscientious craft or appreciation. Why should such a claim be accepted for perry?

In an era of a blossoming abundance of artisan perry makers, the claim of the death of something so widely venerated seems grossly distorted. A marketing ploy aimed to rile the players in the market, to gain coverage or simply to communicate an approach to sales strategy? Regardless, the sweeping statement drew some impassioned attention.

Was it right to state perry is dead? A more considered response specific to Weston’s intentions could better have addressed consumers’ confuddlement by the term perry, rather than retire the term entirely. Like it or not, the move to delete the term perry from mainstream view does raise an issue that should be addressed; most people don’t understand what perry is. Or the difference (or similarity) between a perry and a pear cider.

Who can blame them when it’s complicated? Only 35 per cent juice content is legally required to be called a cider or perry. Those juices (apple or pear) can be from concentrate. Pear cider is technically a perry. Which can be 100 per cent eating pears. Pear ciders can be produced with up to 25 per cent apple juice. So how do customers know what they’re choosing to drink?

For some there will be no interest in the actual content of their drink but there are steps that could be taken to clear the waters muddied by a legal definition that blurs the lines between cider, pear cider and perry. Clarity of labelling and product definition are key to education of consumers, not dumbing down of nomenclature. Appreciation of ingredients and provenance is optional, but provision of that information should be essential, not exceptional.

Rather than a denial of its existence, all producers should be nurturing an appreciation for the craft in creating real perry. To relegate perry made from perry pears cheapens the product. In a time when the future of perry pears as a species hangs in the balance, we should be supporting an appreciation for a drink that could, one day, become a thing of the past. Appreciation for the value of perry trees and their fruit is diminished if their produce is not acknowledged.

A contributing factor to the rarity of perries is that planting perry pear trees doesn’t yield rapid returns. With trees that can take more than 30 years to crop fully, few farmers or orchardists will see trees they plant now reach their prime in their working lifetime. The success of future harvests also lies under the shadow of climate change and the rage of fire blight sweeping across the Three Counties. Yet, in spite of the challenges, perry pear trees are being planted by a devoted following. Tom Nancarrow (of Adam’s Apples) sells out of hundreds of perry pear trees every year, a trend unperturbed by opinions voiced at Weston’s.

Given the tiny proportion of perries available, particularly outside supermarkets, it comes as no surprise that perry is misunderstood. Many people we chat to don’t have a clear understanding of what perry is, few marvel at the opportunity to try a perry, often deterred by price point of a real perry over a pear cider. That price represents the time, skill and knowledge taken for it to be corralled, gentled, to tame the unpredictable fermentation. Commercial producers of pear cider harness the muscle of fining agents and fine filters to wrestle the juice into submission and dampen its wilful spirit. Artisans rarely so, employing honed intuition to harness the tempestuous juice and creating fine beverages of exceptional quality. Drinks with incredible complexity and diversity.

Artisan producers and perry aficionados continue to forge a way forward in the rebellion against the erasure of real perry. The Malvern show hosted its inaugural perry competition in 2025. The Devon County Show has introduced a perry category in its competition for 2026. Last year saw perry further recognised in winning the Breakthrough Cider Maker Award for the first time.

Even outside the three counties, small producers like Blue Barrel, Cambridgeshire, report an increase in sales of perry last year. Rull Orchard, Devon has released seven new perries from the 2025 harvest. Both producers have waiting lists of customers eager to get their hands on real perry. Not a pear cider in sight!

Perry didn’t die last year – it thrived! Long may the rebellion continue.