One of the joys of upping sticks to an entirely new place is discovering the pubs and breweries on your new doorstep. Right at the top of my to-do list was a visit to the All Nations Inn in Telford. It was one of just four surviving brewpubs in 1971 when CAMRA was founded – one of the Famous Four.

It is by my reckoning about as close to the perfect pub as you might find anywhere. The 18th-century, Grade II-listed brick house is nestled on a hillside, embraced by swathes of tall trees. Its cosy rooms and low beamed ceilings exude a siren’s call to come in and take the weight off. It would be churlish not to enjoy a pint from the tiny brewhouse out the back and its latest offering just won Champion Beer at the Bridgnorth CAMRA festival.

Despite the timeless feel of the place, the All Nations have also been thrust into a new era. Just two weeks before I moved to the area, the pub’s owner Jim Birtwhistle, died at the age of 74. A regular since 1974, he bought the pub 20 years ago. He was well-liked for his affable manner and is remembered for his dry sense of humour. Even his occasional grumpiness is recalled with affection.

A retired teacher, Jim had had his fill of paperwork, so the beers brewed at the All Nations are not available anywhere else. They get occasional outings at beer festivals, or maybe a private party. But otherwise “you’ll have to come here for it” I am told by Rose Craddock, the pub’s manager of two decades.

Located just opposite Blists Hill Victorian Town, the pub Jim loved is the beating heart of its community. It is frequented by locals from the village of Madeley. Families and dogs are positively encouraged. I visited on a warm afternoon in late September. Everyone was out in the higgledy-piggledy courtyard, chatting and smiling in the unexpected sunshine. My toddler giggled as she fed a treat to a shaggy-haired dog who basked on the flagstones.

Details of the recent quoits competition are still on the chalkboard and preparations are underway for the annual Halloween celebrations. One of Jim’s best-loved innovations, the black pudding, cheese & onion toastie, is still on the handwritten menu.

That sense of quiet constancy is reassuring. The loss of a much-loved character has upset the gentle momentum of this delightful hostelry. But, there is a determination to keep the pub as it has been for the last generation. Rose has taken on the personal licence and, with the agreement of Jim’s wife Linda, “we’re not changing nothing.”

“It is strange, him not being here,” Rose says. “I miss his advice. If I wanted a bit of help with the cellar, he was always there.” There is a Jim-shaped void at the All Nations Inn, but still it remains, a peaceful sanctuary.

A great pub like this doesn’t just happen by accident. It is a credit to the tight-knit team’s hard work both behind the bar and in the brewery. I’m glad that nothing is going to change, at least for now.

We all need respite from the relentless bombardment of change and unrest in life. Pubs like the All Nations are important spaces for us to make connections. They are good for our mental health. I feel lucky to have moved close to this one. Times change and things evolve, but by supporting community pubs, in good times and bad, we get much more back than we put in.

Photo: Laura Hadland